From beyond the graveyard: the rich roots of cemetery terroir

Last year, Jamie Oakes, a master distiller at Tamworth, a craft distillery in New Hampshire, was out tapping maples with someone he calls a local old-timer—“I don’t think he’d like us using his name,” he explains—when he spotted a sun-dappled stand of old maples, apparently surging with sap. “How about those over…

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